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A Culture Criminalized Before It Was Commercialized

Gemma Ortwerth

Article Details:

Gemma Ortwerth

August 29, 2026

Police arrested William Dorsey Swann in Washington on April 12, 1888, along with approximately a dozen other Black men adorned in women's clothing. The Washington Post reported that Swann, in a cream-colored satin dress, ran at the officers, with little mention of the white men also in attendance, who BlackPast reports fled through back doors and windows when police arrived.


Swann was born into slavery in Hancock, Maryland, around 1858, and almost everything that was documented about his life was written by his prosecutors, whose judgment was riddled with a bigoted sense of piety and unwarranted self-righteousness.


Michel-Rolph Trouillot argued in "Silencing the Past" (Beacon Press, 1995) that power decides which events generate records. Saidiya Hartman, in Small Axe in 2008, described archives built through criminalization, where a person becomes legible only when an institution acts against them. Arrest reports survive. Court documents survive. So do the documents detailing the January 1896 sentence of 300 days for "keeping a disorderly house," a brothel charge; Channing Gerard Joseph, whose "House of Swann" (Crown, 2026) reconstructs the case, found no evidence Swann ran one. And his pardon petition to Grover Cleveland survives at the National Archives, signed by 30 supporters and opposed by U.S. Attorney A.A. Birney. Cleveland refused.


Those documents, and others like them, show a repeating sequence and a mechanism. Every instrument used against drag has been discretionary, fabricated by those at the helm of oppression: an official decides case by case, without a stated standard and often without a hearing. Institutions excluded LGBTQ+ people. Drag communities built replacement spaces for liberation and sanctuary, and the same discretion eventually slithered its way in.


Crackdowns on clothing came first. Clare Sears documents in "Arresting Dress" (Duke University Press, 2015) that San Francisco criminalized appearing in "a dress not belonging to his or her sex" in 1863, and that 34 cities in 21 states passed similar laws by 1900. Enforcement sorted by race and class together: middle-class white women in men's clothing were rarely charged, while arrests concentrated among poor and racialized residents, Black residents most disproportionately of all. The statutes were broad enough that officers rarely distinguished theatrical performance from gender nonconformity, sexuality or trans life, Kate Redburn found in the Law and History Review in 2022.


George Chauncey documents in "Gay New York" (Basic Books, 1994) that in an act of culture vulturism, white-owned clubs sold drag to straight audiences during the late 1920s, in what came to be called the pansy craze, with operators running paid slumming tours to Black queer venues staffed by Black performers. When Prohibition ended in 1933, he writes, New York's new State Liquor Authority announced it would not license premises serving or employing homosexuals.


Drag work then needed two police permissions. NPR reported in 2020 that from 1940 to 1967 the NYPD issued a mandatory cabaret card to every nightclub worker, revocable for any arrest and without a hearing; losing it ended a performer's right to work from that point forward, and the City Council did not abolish the system until 1967. For 27 years a performer's livelihood had depended on a policeman's opinion and on how he enforced his own idea of discretion.


Bars produced the next avenue for drag. José Sarria, a performer at San Francisco's Black Cat, ran for the Board of Supervisors in 1961, the first openly gay candidate for office in the U.S., a landmark of its own. He placed ninth of 33 with about 5,600 votes, per the GLBT Historical Society and NBC Bay Area; the court he founded claims fifth of 29, which no contemporaneous source supports. He and local bar owners founded the Tavern Guild in 1963 to pool money for legal defense and to negotiate with police on behalf of performers. After charities refused gay donors, he founded the Imperial Court System in 1965.

Photo from PBS
Photo from PBS

Sylvia Rivera and Marsha P. Johnson called themselves street drag queens, a self-description Susan Stryker's "Transgender History" (Seal Press, 2017) warns against relabeling, since it is not our right to assign an identity a person never claimed. The two founded Street Transvestite Action Revolutionaries in 1970 and ran STAR House, a shelter for homeless queer youth, until it closed a year later. Organizations pursuing anti-discrimination bills were lobbying legislators and hounding the press, and with the political climate and social pressures of the era taken into account, they treated sex workers and poor members of the community as evidence against their case rather than as people deserving protection.

Sylvia Rivera with a STAR sign
Sylvia Rivera with a STAR sign

At the Christopher Street Liberation Day rally in June 1973, organizers kept Rivera off the stage after Lesbian Feminist Liberation objected. She took the microphone and was booed. She left organized activism; the bills that followed omitted drag and gender-nonconforming people from their earliest drafts.


Race divided the communities from within, too. The 1968 documentary "The Queen" recorded Crystal LaBeija objecting on camera that Manhattan pageant judges were in obvious favor of the white contestants. In response, she organized her own event with a performer known as Lottie. Her house's history gives 1968 as its founding, while scholarly accounts record 1972; the first ball, held in Harlem in 1972, is undisputed. Sources call LaBeija a drag performer and a trans woman; the record available does not provide a clear answer.


The AIDS epidemic showed that society was willing to budge and could feign progress if doing so reduced the mortality of its workforce and kept the machinery of capitalism well oiled. Gay Men's Health Crisis and ballroom leaders including Arbert Santana and George Bellinger Jr. created the House of Latex in 1989, which runs an annual ball with free testing. Marlon M. Bailey reported in the journal Souls in 2009 that it was the longest-running HIV prevention program aimed at the ballroom community, a scene he documents as overwhelmingly Black, Latino and poor, and that the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention neither classified it as an intervention nor funded it, a refusal rooted in homophobia, transphobia and blatant racism. Metropolitan Community Church, the first American denomination with an AIDS ministry, lost about a third of its congregants by 1996, its denominational history told Tablet, not to defections over its stance but to a disease the federal government spent a decade declining to fight.


Commercial utilization of drag as capital for profit followed over two decades. Jennie Livingston's "Paris Is Burning" cost about $500,000 and grossed $3.8 million. Subjects who sued were told they had signed releases; producers later split $55,000 among 13 of them relative to their screen time. Jesse Green reported in The New York Times on April 18, 1993, that once the mainstream took what had been a punishable taboo and turned it into a marketable interest, the participants stopped being of interest to anyone. They faded, their celebrity evaporating in the fire of greed and their opportunities drying up in its wake.

From Paris is Burning
From Paris is Burning

"RuPaul's Drag Race," which premiered in 2009, moved major decision-making to casting producers. Contestants were required to self-fund their wardrobes, Dissent reported in 2024, while most performers balance second jobs to sustain their careers and basic needs. Cleveland performers told Cleveland Scene in 2025 that venues pay alumni of the show thousands while local acts get $50 regardless of the draw. A Seattle performer, Xi, told Real Change in 2024 that stage time is what converts to income and that booking still favors white performers, putting entry cost and racial preference on one ledger.


After decades of fighting for rights, the power of bigotry and willful ignorance prevails. Just before the current presidential administration, which has undone much human rights progress, Tennessee Gov. Bill Lee signed the Adult Entertainment Act March 2, 2023, as Tennessee Lookout reported, restricting "male or female impersonators" where minors might see them, with a second offense a felony. Its operative phrase, "harmful to minors," is applied by prosecutors. A federal judge found it unconstitutionally vague; the 6th U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals reversed in July 2024 on standing, not merits, and the Supreme Court declined review. In Blount Pride v. Desmond, brought by the ACLU of Tennessee, Judge J. Ronnie Greer of the Eastern District of Tennessee blocked enforcement, then dismissed on standing in October 2025; the appeal the group announced Feb. 19, 2026 is pending.


Across 138 years, the systems in place have kept one shape: the shadow of the oppressor, the enforcers of the cis-hetero white patriarchy. Be they a police lieutenant, a liquor examiner, a racist pageant judge or a slimy casting producer, each staked a claim over who deserved and was allowed to perform; none had to publish a standard or defend their position, and each of their actions harmed the same people: performers who were poor, disproportionately Black and Latino, least able to appeal the injustices done to them.


Today, drag still permeates popular culture. "RuPaul's Drag Race" closed its 18th season in April 2026, and only in 2021, on its 13th, did an openly trans man compete for the first time. Its roots in ballroom culture stay buried beneath a commercialized, whitewashed version straight audiences can swallow. Behind the brunch performances of pop music designed for bachelorette parties, the types of lesbians who kiss girls only when people are watching, the closeted lavender marriages, and the public spectacle sits a far deeper culture whose history deserves to be told and deserves to have been recorded.


The history speaks for itself. Don't let the media fool you: drag began as criminalized Black culture long before you made it your weekly watch with the girlies.

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